Things I got to learn travelling Haryana on a cycle

Haryana, separated from Punjab in 1966, shares more cultural similarities with its neighboring state Rajasthan than with Punjab. As a predominantly Hindu state, Haryana takes pride in preserving its traditions and is considered one of the most developed northern states. Situated next to rapidly growing cities like Chandigarh, Gurgaon, Delhi, and Ghaziabad, Haryana benefits from greater opportunities in education and employment along with better infrastructure compared to some of its neighboring regions. The state is also famous for its rich culinary tradition, marked by the heavy use of dairy, and for producing some of India’s finest athletes who have excelled on the global stage.

My visit to Haryana was brief, and I gathered only limited insights during my stay. It’s worth noting that my observations may carry personal biases shaped by my travel style and perspective. Please read this account with an open mind, and I encourage you to share your thoughts and experiences in the comments.

The development

Haryana appeared significantly more developed than its neighboring states of Punjab, Rajasthan, and Uttar Pradesh in terms of infrastructure, education, healthcare, and the gradual shift away from traditional caste-based systems, which are still deeply entrenched in Rajasthan. Although caste-based discrimination persists in parts of Haryana, the state has made notable progress, particularly in women’s education and in offering greater personal freedom, such as allowing people to dress as they choose.

One striking observation was that many villages in Haryana are as well-organized as the cities. With the exception of a small eastern strip, much of the state was clean and well-planned. While its roadways are comparable to other northern states, Haryana’s agricultural strength—much like Punjab’s—is supported by a reliable 24-hour electricity supply. Haryana was among the first states to receive electricity in the 1970s during the Green Revolution, which has greatly contributed to its development.

Unlike Punjab, where hospitals are few and far between, Haryana has a much stronger healthcare network, with Hisar emerging as a medical hub in the region. Locals I spoke with consistently praised the government’s efforts in driving the state’s growth. The Haryana Urban Development Authority has played a key role in this, creating well-planned, spacious, and clean localities, giving Haryana a unique character unlike any other northern state.

The community

In Haryana, over 90% of the population is Hindu, with the dominant community being the Jaats, similar to Punjab. Throughout my travels, I often encountered sentiments of distrust or dislike toward Muslim communities and other neighboring groups, with locals expressing difficulty in integrating with those from different backgrounds. People here take great pride in their culture, traditions, and ethnicity, but there seemed to be a reluctance to engage with communities outside their own.

As a Hindu-majority region with significant historical and religious importance—such as Kurukshetra, the site of the Mahabharata—Haryana is home to numerous *dharamshalas* (religious rest houses) for travelers. However, unlike other parts of India, I observed that many *dharamshalas* were segregated by caste, reflecting the lingering presence of the caste system. Despite this, there remains a strong sense of cultural unity that binds the people of Haryana together.

The culture

Haryana, much like Rajasthan, is deeply rooted in its culture, which is reflected in every aspect of life—whether through sports, clothing, food, or the traditional hookah, which serves as a tool for social bonding. Although there is no official boundary separating Punjab and Haryana, the shift is immediately noticeable through the warm and welcoming nature of the Haryanvis. As soon as you cross into Haryana, you’ll hear a shift in language from Punjabi to Haryanvi, and locals are quick to offer tea, water, and snacks—a clear sign of their hospitality.

While Punjab has struggled with drug issues, Haryana appears largely immune, likely due to its strong focus on sports and its general aversion to intoxicants. I observed far less smoking and drug use in Haryana compared to other northern states. Sports play a significant role in the lives of Haryanvi youth, with nearly 20% of children aspiring to become athletes. Wrestling, in particular, is seen as a cultural legacy, with other Olympic sports such as shooting, track and field, chess, and hockey also having dedicated academies in nearly every city.

Haryana, like Gujarat and Rajasthan, is predominantly vegetarian. Even in demanding sports like wrestling, athletes maintain a vegetarian diet, which is heavily reliant on dairy products. Buffalo milk is central to the cuisine, and every household typically owns at least a couple of buffaloes for this purpose. The portions are generous, with rotis often drenched in butter or ghee, and oil is rarely used in cooking—so much so that locals joke, “Oil is for hair, not for food.” The love for dairy is so ingrained in Haryanvi culture that many say locals can’t live outside the state without their milk and curd. A popular proverb captures this sentiment: *“Desan me des Haryana, jitt doodh dahi ka khana”* (“Among all lands, Haryana is best, where milk and curd are staples of the diet.”)

Although the Haryanvi language lacks its own script, it is written in Hindi, and all public signs in Haryana are in Hindi. The traditional attire for men includes a distinct white kurta with sleeves and a rounded bottom. Unlike Punjab, where nuclear families are more common, most Haryanvi families live in joint households, and the strong sense of community is evident in the evening gatherings where people come together to play cards or share a hookah.Haryana’s deep connection to its traditions, sports culture, and unique way of life makes it stand out in the northern region.

The division

Haryana can be broadly divided into two regions—western and eastern—based primarily on cultural differences and soil quality, which influences the types of crops grown. The western part of Haryana benefits from the Sutlej-Yamuna Link Canal, enabling the cultivation of crops like paddy, wheat, and sugarcane, much like Punjab. In contrast, the eastern part is more reliant on rainfall, and crops like bajra and cotton are predominant. However, as one moves eastward, there is a noticeable improvement in education and job opportunities, particularly in well-developed cities like Gurgaon, Delhi, and Chandigarh.

Haryana is a state rich in culture, with its cuisine being a standout feature. While there may be fewer travel destinations, the locals have little desire to leave, feeling that everything they need—especially their unique food—is already available to them. The warmth and hospitality of the Haryanvi people only add to the charm of this region, making visitors feel truly welcome.

Given my brief stay in Haryana, there may be aspects I’ve missed. I welcome your thoughts and contributions in the comments. For more articles like this, feel free to explore other articles.