Things I got to learn touring Uttar Pradesh on a cycle

Uttar Pradesh is commonly perceived by the rest of India as the birthplace of many politicians, an agricultural hub, a region witnessing a reduction in crime rates, and the most densely populated area in the country. This state has cultivated a reputation for its significance in politics, issues related to crime, religious landmarks, and the challenge of unemployment due to its immense population. During my extensive cycling journey throughout this diverse state, I had the opportunity to experience these aspects firsthand. In this article, I share my personal insights on various topics. While I’ve strived to maintain objectivity, please keep in mind that some bias may arise from my mode of travel and personal perspective. I welcome your comments and any disagreements, along with your reasons, in the comment section below.

The lifestyle

Uttar Pradesh predominantly thrives on agriculture and is renowned for being the leading producer of food grains in India. The majority of the population in this state is engaged in farming, leading a lifestyle deeply rooted in agriculture. This agricultural prominence is partly attributed to the state’s flat terrain and the abundant availability of groundwater. During my journey across Uttar Pradesh, I encountered hand pumps installed virtually everywhere. These hand pumps are a common sight, and the water they provide is freely accessible to all, thanks to the abundant water resources in the region.

Similar to my observations in Madhya Pradesh, the western region of Uttar Pradesh is deeply rooted in spirituality and hospitality. This area, often referred to as “bruj land,” is renowned as the birthplace of Lord Krishna and is home to spiritual destinations like Mathura and Vrindavan. The tradition of “Athithi devo bhava” (treating guests as gods) still thrives in this part of the state, where it’s not uncommon for strangers to invite guests into their homes, offering food and a place to stay for the night. However, as I traveled further east, I noticed a significant decline in this humility and hospitality.

One characteristic that seems to be consistent across all of Uttar Pradesh is a strong sense of ego. If you praise or flatter someone, they can be incredibly helpful, often going out of their way to assist you. However, challenging their ego or opinions is strongly discouraged. People in Uttar Pradesh are generally kind to strangers but can be impulsive, often lacking common sense and social awareness. It’s not uncommon for someone to approach you and try on your hat and glasses. Due to their impulsiveness, conflicts and street fights are frequent occurrences, as people firmly believe in their own ideas and tend to argue vehemently. This was a notable trait I observed among the people. It’s advisable to refrain from engaging in debates or arguments with individuals in Uttar Pradesh considering their impulsivity.

Another distinguishing feature of people in Uttar Pradesh is their frequent use of profanity in everyday conversation. The use of curse words is prevalent, and it’s considered a casual part of their communication.

Quality of life

Uttar Pradesh, being the most densely populated state in the country, is profoundly impacted by its large population. The effects are evident in the crowded streets, the scarcity of job opportunities, and the high levels of unemployment. The majority of the young people I spoke with expressed their struggle to find employment, which often leads them back to farming, regardless of their level of education. Sadly, during my journey through UP, I noticed a prevalent issue of homelessness. In almost every place I visited, makeshift tents lined the streets, serving as shelters for those without a home.

The significant lack of job opportunities, coupled with UP’s extensive population, has resulted in a substantial outmigration from the state. This is why we find people from Uttar Pradesh living in various parts of India. Even those who remain in UP often experience a suboptimal quality of life. In many villages, houses are constructed from bricks but are left unpainted. When I inquired about this observation, many people explained that painting costs were simply unaffordable for most residents. This situation extends to cities like Kanpur and the outskirts of Lucknow, where poverty is prevalent throughout UP. The drainage system did not seem to have any improvement in comparison with Rajhasthan (Read this article).

Cycling is a deeply rooted tradition in UP, with a considerable portion of the population opting for bicycles as their primary mode of transportation. In fact, UP might have the largest number of bicycles in the country. Additionally, in UP, various goods, services, and commodities are notably more affordable compared to other parts of India.

Education

A notable distinction I observed in Uttar Pradesh, unlike many other parts of India, is that people are more inclined to inquire about one’s qualifications rather than their caste. Education is held in high regard; however, there is a significant deficiency in the quality of education available in UP. The state may indeed have the highest number of schools and colleges in the country. Every few kilometers, you’ll come across numerous schools and intermediate colleges. Unfortunately, many of these educational institutions have been reduced to profit-driven enterprises, prioritizing financial gain over the quality of education. Most major colleges are owned by affluent politicians who exploit them as lucrative businesses. I’ve heard from people in UP that enrolling in these colleges can practically guarantee a degree certificate as long as one is willing to pay the semester fees, compensate for attendance shortages, and participate in all examinations. Earning a degree in UP is relatively straightforward, but many graduates are essentially literate individuals who lack true education in their chosen field. The politicians who’ve turned education into a business to keep the population undereducated bear responsibility for this situation. The poor quality of education has driven a significant portion of the youth in UP toward substance abuse.

Pollution

The significant population density is contributing to the issue of limited space and the accumulation of waste in the state. Throughout Uttar Pradesh, you can witness the dumping of plastic and various types of organic and inorganic waste along the roadside. Most water bodies are susceptible to eutrophication or have turned into dumping grounds where garbage is disposed of. There wasn’t a single place in UP where I observed that the local water bodies were clean. This problem is also reflective of the mindset of the people who frequently discard waste as if the entire state were a dumping ground. It’s a common sight to see almost everyone in UP chewing tobacco and spitting wherever they please, given the prevalent perception that the streets serve as open trash bins.

The new government

Everywhere you travel in the state, you’ll encounter widespread praise for Yogi Adityanath and the BJP government, crediting them for the transformation of Uttar Pradesh. They claim that what was once a region plagued by crime has become safe for all residents. The road infrastructure has seen significant improvements, with clean and wide roads forming a well-connected network throughout the state. I consistently heard this sentiment across UP that crime rates used to be so high that one couldn’t venture out in the evening without the risk of open muggings. This transformation has swayed many people in UP to become devoted supporters of the BJP and Prime Minister Modi. People in this vast state have unwavering support for Modi. However, it appears that the government’s strategy is to keep their supporters’ eyes closed. Despite the significant developments in areas such as road infrastructure, crime reduction, and temple infrastructure, the quality of education has suffered, turning the public into unquestioning followers driven by faith.

Culture

Chola Batura, accompanied by jilabis, is a popular breakfast dish, and the people of Uttar Pradesh have a strong penchant for a wide variety of sweets. Additionally, wheat is abundantly produced and serves as the staple food for the population. However, when it comes to art, there is a noticeable absence in the state, with only a few rock carving artists in Ayodhya and tribal communities near the Chhattisgarh border showcasing their artistic talents. Music and literature seemed to be lacking and were not prominently featured. Even the music played during the festive season of Dusshera appeared to be somewhat mediocre at various locations.

In summary, my time in Uttar Pradesh was quite hectic, with people constantly gathering around me. Dealing with their incessant and often illogical questions was challenging. Nevertheless, the overwhelming love and warmth they showered upon me compensated for their occasional immaturity. If you’d like to read about my experiences in other states, please visit this page.