Read this before travelling Tamil Nadu

From taking pride in speaking one of the world’s oldest languages to facing discrimination for their skin tone, Tamil Nadu is a land of striking contrasts. Steeped in culture, tradition, rich heritage, and layered history, it is a place that outsiders often struggle to understand — yet for those who live here, it is not just a state but an emotion. Among all the Indian states I’ve traveled through, Tamil Nadu stood out as the most paradoxical. Everything I experienced, whether uplifting or unsettling, seemed to exist in extremes. Consider this: a state with some of the scarcest water resources also ranks among the highest in GDP in the country. Even its people seem to represent two ends of a spectrum — deeply devotional on one side, and radically secular or disillusioned on the other.

In this article, I attempt to share what I learned during my brief time in Tamil Nadu. I acknowledge that my limited stay and the language barrier may have shaped my understanding, and perhaps even limited it. As always, I’ve tried to minimize my biases, though I recognize that my perspective — shaped by how I travel and who I meet — will never be entirely free of them. Please take these reflections with a grain of salt, and I warmly invite you to share your thoughts, corrections, or additions in the comments below.

History

Tamil Nadu is one of the few regions in India that has never experienced a major invasion or large-scale war. This continuity of rule, largely by empires with aligned ideologies, allowed the state’s language, culture, temples, and art to remain remarkably well-preserved — in contrast to central India, which bore the brunt of repeated invasions and upheavals. For centuries, the Tamil region was predominantly ruled by three major dynasties: the Pallavas, the Pandyas, and the Cholas, with occasional overlap from the Cheras, who primarily governed parts of present-day Kerala. Among them, the Chola Empire rose to extraordinary power, even extending its influence across Southeast Asia to regions like modern-day Malaysia and Singapore.

Tamil Nadu today is a living museum of this cultural inheritance. The influence of the Pandyas is most evident in areas like Madurai and Dindigul, while the Chola legacy thrives in cities such as Thanjavur and Tiruchirappalli. The imprint of Pallava art and architecture can be prominently seen in and around Chennai. Everything in Tamil Nadu — from its temple architecture to its traditions — is a vibrant continuation of this historical and cultural legacy.

Food

To my surprise, Tamil Nadu’s food stood in stark contrast to that of its neighboring state, Andhra Pradesh. The dishes here were noticeably milder, with significantly less salt and spice. Sambar and chutneys, staples of the cuisine, were often thinner and more watery compared to the rich, robust versions I encountered in Andhra. Tamil cuisine seemed to lean more towards non-vegetarian fare, and overall, the meals were simpler, with less emphasis on elaborate flavors or presentation.

What stood out, however, was the uniform tradition of serving food on banana leaves — a practice followed consistently across the state, from humble roadside stalls to upscale restaurants. This cultural consistency was both admirable and memorable.

Another notable aspect was the prevalence of local food brands — especially for products like buttermilk, pickles, and soft drinks. While I personally found some of these to be of lower quality compared to mainstream alternatives, they likely play a significant role in supporting the state’s economy. That said, when compared to Andhra Pradesh — where culinary pride is more pronounced — Tamil Nadu’s food scene felt more utilitarian and modest, possibly at the cost of quality.

Attire

In Tamil Nadu, traditional attire is not just a cultural symbol but a part of daily life. Most men wear a veshti (dhoti or lungi), and women typically wear sarees, often with their hair adorned with fresh flowers. This everyday adherence to tradition gives the state a distinct and timeless character.

The general atmosphere appears conservative, with modest clothing being the norm, especially among women. It is uncommon to see attire that doesn’t cover the body fully. Outside many temples, signboards clearly state that only those in traditional dress are allowed entry, reflecting the deep respect for cultural and religious customs.

Temples – Art and Architecture

Temples in southern India, particularly in Tamil Nadu, have long served as epicenters of art, architecture, and cultural expression. The presence of over 40,000 temples that are more than a thousand years old is a testament to the region’s deep-rooted emphasis on aesthetic and spiritual pursuits. Tamil Nadu played a central role in the Bhakti movement, which spanned from the 7th to the 17th century and significantly shaped the devotional and artistic traditions of the state.

Music, poetry, and instruments have formed the core of Tamil artistic expression. The legacy of iconic musicians like A.R. Rahman, Ilaiyaraaja, M.S. Subbulakshmi, and S.P. Balasubrahmanyam — all of whom hail from Tamil Nadu — reflects the region’s profound musical heritage, especially in the realm of devotional music. Historically, temples served as performance spaces, with their acoustics and architectural grandeur providing a sacred stage that remains unmatched anywhere else in India.

Madurai, often referred to as the “Athens of the East,” stands as the cultural capital of Tamil Nadu and one of the oldest continually inhabited cities in the country. Every temple here carries a story — a folklore interwoven with Hindu scriptures and spiritual symbolism. Central to Tamil devotional tradition are the 63 Nayanmars, saints devoted to Lord Shiva, and the 12 Alvars, devotees of Lord Vishnu. Revered as local deities, each of these saints is remembered through tales of their unwavering devotion and the divine grace through which they attained *mukti* (liberation), becoming an integral part of the spiritual landscape of the region.

Each temple in Tamil Nadu traditionally has its own elephant, used to carry the deity during processions and festivals. This practice dates back to the times of the ancient kingdoms, when elephants were gifted by rulers as a symbol of reverence and devotion. The continuation of this tradition to this day reflects the deep respect people in Tamil Nadu have for their heritage and their commitment to preserving the customs of the past.

Concept of waste

Tamil Nadu boasts well-developed infrastructure, with a strong network of roadways, modern buildings, numerous factories, and thriving production lines that contribute to substantial employment opportunities. However, this industrial and urban growth seems to have come at the cost of cleanliness. Among all the South Indian states I visited, Tamil Nadu stood out as the most unclean. Littering is common, and it’s not unusual to see waste scattered along roadsides, reflecting a general lack of awareness or habit around using dustbins.

Locals shared an interesting perspective that offers some context: traditionally, everything in Tamil Nadu was organic and biodegradable. Nothing was considered waste. For instance, banana leaves used for serving food naturally decompose into manure, and ritual offerings—like milk, coconut water, and sandalwood paste—used during *abhishekam* (sacred bathing of idols) were washed into temple tanks where people would later bathe. This age-old belief that nothing is impure and everything returns to the universe as *bhasma* (ash) seems to have deeply influenced collective attitudes.

Unfortunately, while the tradition remains, the nature of waste has changed. Non-biodegradable materials are now discarded with the same indifference, leading to pollution that the older system wasn’t designed to handle. The mindset hasn’t adapted to modern materials, and as a result, practices once rooted in sustainability now contribute to a growing cleanliness problem.

Language

Tamil Nadu has often been in the news for its strong and vocal defense of the Tamil language, sometimes being perceived as unwelcoming to other languages. However, traveling through the state gave me a deeper understanding of the sentiment behind this stance. Much like its ancient culture, the Tamil language is central to the identity of its people. It is not merely a means of communication—it is the heart and soul of Tamil society. The language and culture are inseparable, and together they shape the essence of what it means to be Tamil.

Tamil is one of the oldest living languages in the world, not just in India, with a literary history that spans over two millennia. It boasts the largest alphabet among Indian languages, with 247 letters, and has the richest vocabulary. A dedicated language council oversees its growth, consistently updating the lexicon to incorporate contemporary concepts. I was surprised to learn that Tamil already has native words for modern terms like “artificial intelligence” and “satellite,” a testament to its adaptability and continued relevance.

Even the structure of the language reflects the deep emotional connection people have with it. The vowels, called *Uyirezhuthu* (letters of breath), and the consonants, *Meyyezhuthu* (letters of the body), combine to form 216 compound letters, with 31 additional letters bringing the total to 247. These poetic names symbolize how intrinsic the language is to life itself.

Despite this profound reverence, there is a lingering frustration among many in Tamil Nadu about the perceived neglect of their language at the national level. One of the common grievances is that Tamil receives only a tenth of the government funding allotted to Sanskrit—a classical language no longer in spoken use. This disparity is seen as an injustice, especially for a language that is still widely spoken and culturally vibrant. The imposition of Hindi, particularly in official circulars and administrative processes, is strongly resisted by many, who view it as a threat to their linguistic identity. For the people of Tamil Nadu, the state is not just a geographical entity—it is a land defined by its language.

People

From my interactions with the locals in Tamil Nadu, I learned that most people here are gentle, simple, and hardworking. They dedicate themselves fully to their work, and if they remain steadfast in their beliefs, nothing can deter them. Devotion is deeply ingrained in the culture. When someone speaks humbly, the people here offer love beyond imagination. The fact that a person of the stature of Abdul Kalam hails from Tamil Nadu is a testament to the inherent kindness of the people. However, I also learned that honor killings were prevalent in the past, reflecting how deeply people value their social image and respect in the community. This highlights the conservative nature of the society. In the 1980s, the government banned the use of caste/community names in surnames to curb discrimination, a unique feature of Tamil Nadu that promotes inclusivity.

From my observations, I noticed two types of people in Tamil Nadu: one group, deeply spiritual, embodying humility and softness, and another, who indulged excessively in drinking. Smoking is also quite prevalent here, something I hadn’t encountered in Andhra Pradesh. Despite these contrasts, Tamilians prioritize women’s safety, with a culture that respects women at all levels of society. There are numerous initiatives aimed at improving the lives of women, which stands in stark contrast to the more conservative segments of the population.

In conclusion, I found the people of Tamil Nadu to be soft, conservative, and deeply cultural. It was a rewarding experience engaging with such devout individuals and witnessing the state’s rich art and architecture. If you enjoyed this article, I invite you to visit this page to read more.